![]() In the Jerry Miculek sense of the word, it's marginally slower than thumbing out the empties because the right hand can leave the gun and head for the reloads just a little bit sooner, but it can still be accomplished very quickly. Meanwhile, the left hand then points the muzzle at the deck to receive the new ammo. Hold the gun using that grip with the muzzle pointed skyward, smack the rod with your right hand keep the right hand sweeping downward to pull out any remaining clingers, and continue that downward motion toward your speedloader, speed strips, or whatever. This allows me to grip the cylinder so that all of my meaty bits are below the front of the crane, so my "spank" doesn't get blocked by it. My version is to push the cylinder open with the first two fingers of the left hand the thumb being on the other side of the frame. Three inches of barrel is indeed the magic number, and it had a bit of a classic gunfighter following back in the day for that very reason - the FBI's Model 13 Smith probably being the most famous example George Patton's 3.5" M27 being another.Įjecting with the thumb of the left hand made sense when the world was running 4" and 6" duty revolvers, and the 3" let a more tactically inclined plainclothes guy retain that technique.Īnymore, snubbies are the rule, and I've taken to run "spank the baby" on everything as a result. The traditional answer to the fast reload is don't miss in the first place. If my personal tools don't do what they need to, they get modified, changed out for a different tool, or new techniques learned to make them work better/best. And for the record, there isn't much of anything at work that looks great, just some tools that work better than others. Just like anything I use at work, just different tools for different purposes. They may look good, but use and function come first. I look at carry guns as tools, nothing much more. If looks outweigh your desire to use the tool, find a different carry tool and modify that one. Small spots of course, and go from there. You can test stain the inside of the grip to find a suitable match for color. Trimming brass is much more labor intensive than learning the new ejection technique. I cannot say if your grips are open enough to take a speed loader, but the spanking technique should allow for quick ejection of empty cases in almost all revolvers.unless the grip is totally our of proportion for a quick reload. That being said, the "spank the baby" technique works, takes practice to get done correctly, and should be used by anyone worried about SD use of their revolver. Nothing more can be done for your technique. I probably need to look at the possibility of simply sanding a relief cut in the left grip but I'm unsure about how to correct the inevitable mismatch in finish color if I have to re-stain part of it.If you are not going to modify your grips to accommodate speed loading/a speed loader, then you are going to be stuck at that junction of reloading your revolver speedily. I don't shoot full-power loads in the gun, so the loss of capacity isn't really that much of an issue. It never occurred to me to trim brass to 38spl length to ease the problem. Very frustrating for an otherwise-excellent gun. which means case extraction involves removing them a few at a time as I can rotate the cylinder. It's got a 3" barrel and I really like it, but the Altamont grips I put on it (which I am absolutely keeping) don't have quite the appropriate clearance on them to extract a 357 case. I'll try and take some.This is something which has caused me significant headache with my S&W Mod. Looking at the diagrams I don't see any shimming or adjustment here. If I place the star in the cylinder it won't close. Worse, the star piece is thicker than the original. How do assemble this and how do I do that and retain the correct alignment between the "tube" and the star so that the cylinder advances properly and the chambers correctly line up? However the "tube" and the star do not fit together, it looks like they are press fit or maybe I need to heat the start and chill the tube to press them together. My question is this: The original star appears to be one machined piece, however the new star came as two parts, a tube like piece that goes into the cylinder and into which the ejector rod screws, and the actual star piece. Regardless, the rod is slightly bent and the threads are damaged. 44 came loose, and I (think I) bent it slightly closing the cylinder - it fouled on the barrel shroud.
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